Mandu
Mandu is not precisely easy of access. The roads, in the area, are narrow, tortuous, and of rough coating. Especially if one chooses the way which makes it possible, starting from Indore, to visit Dhar to go then to Mandu... I take the bet which this situation will put of time to improve. But if there is patience to go in these isolated places, one will taste with the nostalgic and romantic pleasure of a large plate dominating the surrounding plains, strewn with imposing ruins. A little a voyage out of time. It is true that the case is not single in India, and that the tourist hordes always concentrate in the same sites, but what is essential, it is well to think that over there still, in this pretty corner of the south of Madhya Pradesh, one will take his time to visit in detail of the monuments which are certainly not most prestigious, but which will leave an excellent memory that the years do not erase.
To arrive on the site of Mandu, it is first of all to climb on this plate of 2000 ha, with some 630 meters of altitude, and to cross the frightening doors of enclosures, four, not more not less: Alamgir Darwaza, Bhangi Darwaza, Kaman Darwaza, and Gadi Darwaza. Near, the ruins of the palate of Chisti Khan-ka-Mahal do not bring large thing. But one will not miss Delhi Darwaza (Door of Delhi) of more than eight meters height. While arriving in the center of the village, one will notice the principal monuments whose visit is essential.
Jama Masjid is, as its name indicates it, the Large Mosque. It was founded by Hushang Shah and was completed in 1454 by Mahmud Shah. Its style is known as Afghan.
The Mausoleum of Hoshang
Shah, just beside the Large Mosque is a beautiful marble building to the massive
but harmonious proportions. A large central dome is surrounded by four small
domes to the angles. It dates from the same time as the mosque, which means
that it is certainly one of oldest marble constructions in India. The interior
is enlightened the stone screens openwork (jali) so characteristic of the
Indian Muslim art.
Jahaz Mahal is without any doubt the most gracious monument more attaching and of Mandu. Length of more than one hundred meters, it extends at the edge of a small lake its particular silhouette which gave him this name of "Palate of the boat". Large rather stiff staircases give access to the higher terrace which is decorated of an old swimming pool for these ladies of the royal court. From there, one enjoys a pleasant sight on the lake, the other buildings and the gardens.
Near, the palate of Hindola Mahal impresses by its walls with the thick buttresses. It dates the 15 century and shelters a large Room of the Audiences.
Champa Baoli is a well with square section, where one can go down by a staircase. In underground, therefore safe from heat, intense in these places at certain periods of the year, rooms had been dug that the proximity of the water of the well rafraichissaient still better. One will remember that for a fortress such as Mandu, the maintenance of the wells was a vital need.
Other ruins of less importance strew the site, like Shahi Mahal or Nahar Jaroksha, which one will visit or not according to the serviceable time, but one will spend a short moment to visit the local Museum, just opposite Jahaz Mahal. One will see there statues and architectural reasons former to the Moslem period of Mandu, i.e. time Paramara (12 2nd century).
It will be necessary to take again means of transport to go to some three kms more for the south, on the edge of the plate, to visit the House of Rupmati. One of the sovereigns of the local dynasty, Baz Bahadur, fell madly in love with a singer, Hindu woman in addition. It succeeds in convincing it to join it in Mandu and made build for her this romantic residence who especially has for her the framework in which she was built. The history had an unhappy end. The Akbar emperor, from Delhi, organized a military campaign against the dissenting sovereigns of Mandu, put Baz Bahadur in rout. Rupmati, abandoned with its sad fate, preferred to put an end to its days while being poisoned, rather than to fall between the hands from the enemy army.
The last significant visit
with Mandu, is on the Western edge of the plate, in a place says Nilkantha,
which means "A the blue throat", in reference to the shape of the
Shiva god. Nilkhanta was a residence of summer of the Akbar emperor, after
it had conquered Mandu. There remains an interesting temple of Shiva about
it, with splendid sight and cliffside, on the surroundings.
A little history: Initially, the natural site of Mandu was occupied as from the 6th century, under the name of Mandapa-Durga. But it was especially Paramâra d' Ujjain then Dhar which, to 11 and 12 èmes centuries, under the impulse of kings Muñja and Bhoja, developed the site. However, it remains about it only little of things. Mandu escaped the Moslem raids until 1293, undoubtedly thanks to its insulation. But, thereafter the bloody incursions became more frequent and Kings Paramâra yielded the place to governors elected by the Sultan of Delhi, after 1305 and the countryside of Ainu' l-Mu' lk. Followed a long period of governorat. The decline of the Sultan of Delhi, Mohammed-bin-Tughluq, brought the governor of Malwa (the area where Mandu is), Dilawar Khan Ghuri, to take its distances and to declare its independence in 1401. It is of this moment that the true development began from Mandu with kings like Hoshang Shah, which reigned 27 years. Then Mahmud Shah came (of another dynasty, Khalji) which, reigning 37 years, was most significant of the sovereigns which his/her son Ghiyathu' D-DIN succeeded for one duration even longer, then Nasuru' D-DIN in 1500, then Mahmoud II, 31 years. At the 16 2nd century, the fights between the kings of Malwa and Delhi (Humayun, then Sher Shah, then Akbar...) start again. The local king, Baz Bahadur, more carried towards arts, music, and its leaning for beautiful Rupmati (see higher) flees and gives up piteously his/her friend.
Dhar
Dhar is only to 35 km in the north of Mandu. One will visit Dhar either while going on Indore or while coming from there. Two monuments are to be announced:
Kamal Maula Masjid, the 14 2nd century old mosque, which largely re-uses former elements of Hindu architecture of Paramâra time. The unit has despite everything a certain pace. Beautiful mural inscriptions and worthy tombs.
The Fort with the well restored walls, also dating the 14 2nd century. In the large interior court, and a small museum, statues of Paramâra time are exposed.